So, we drilled down a little deeper, and found “Show Substitutions”. It comes back on after re-booting the app.Ĭontrol-Clicking the caption field will show you where to turn off Text Replacement. Turning off Text Replacement isn’t sticky. However, between games he had to restart his computer and the problem was back again. Sure enough, Text Replacement had a check mark next to it. My second plan of attack was to Control-Click the caption and see if I would find something in there that might be causing the problem. We turned off Typinator and it still happened. I first thought it was his text expansion app causing the problems. Needless to say, we needed to figure out how to turn that off. This is all fine and good, except that when he typed, “(c)” a copyright symbol like this, “©” would appear. For instance, instead of writing, “John Doe, center, looks at his feet,” he needs to write, “John Doe, (c), looks at his feet.” He shoots for a wire service and each wire service has very strict and unique style for their captions. I was shooting the first round of the NCAA Men’s Basketball Championships at the Rose Garden Sat., and a fellow photographer had a very unusual Aperture question. You will see that you can zoom in farther in iPhoto. This is easy to test just copy over a 14 MP image and open it in Photos, then open it in iPhoto for iOS ($4.99), and zoom in as far as you can. I have not been able to determine what it does show, but it’s not the full size. Even though the photo will be 14 MP in size, the Photos app on the iPad will not display that image at full size i.e.For a normal aspect-ratio photo (2:3, 5:4, etc.) that equates to roughly 14 Megapixels ( MP). If you copy any photo to your iPad using iTunes that is over 3,072 pixels on the short side it will be scaled down to 3,072.If you don’t care about that, then just make a preset to fit within 2,048 wide and be done with it. The native resolution of the new iPad is 2,048 x 1,526, so you can export a photo to have a max dimension of 2,048 by making a preset “fit within: 2048 x 2048” and that will display at 1:1 and look amazing-but if you pinch in you’ll be past 100% view (obviously) so if you want to zoom in, you need more pixels.If you just want the “what to do”, skip to the end. I’ve been doing a ton of research and testing, and here are my findings. (If you’re looking for the article on displaying images on a web page for viewing on the iPad, go here: How Do You Make Web Graphics & Photos Look Great On The New iPad?) There has been quite a bit of discussion in the last week on how to best scale your photographs to sync to the new iPad to take advantage of the retina display. UPDATE 18:00 - I can hear my Apple friends shaking their heads in unison, “oh Joseph, why are you trying to figure this out… just let iTunes scale the images for you and it’ll all be fine!”. And if I enable the White Balance (just turn it on) then Lift the settings, those values are in fact showing up in the Lift & Stamp dialog. If you take a close look at the White Balance settings, you can see that the camera has set it to Temp: 2670˚K, Tint: 28. The custom white balance set in-camera is Temp: 2670˚K and Tint: 28 The one on the right was balanced off a white card on location and set as a custom white balance in-camera, and is the white balance I want to apply to the other image. The one on the left is an auto-white balance shot, and as you can see it’s very yellow. In the first screenshot, you can see two photos side-by-side. Here’s a step-by-step of what’s happening. All that gets applied is “default” white balance, which means essentially that the WB isn’t going to change. So when you lift it, even though the correct values show up in the Lift & Stamp window, those actual values aren’t applied to the target image. The problem is that since all you’ve done is enable White Balance, Aperture is considering this a “default” setting. For more understanding, keep reading… The Problem Just nudge it up then back again (click the temp arrow one way then back the other, for example), then lift and stamp it. In short, you need to “tickle” the White Balance on the source image. Or even more confusing/frustrating, it may appear to work (the thumbnail and even the image in the viewer may update) but then you look at it later and it’s back the way it was, leaving you all sorts of confused. If you want to lift and stamp the camera-determined white balance from one photo to another, you may have noticed that simply turning white balance ON on the good photo, lifting, then stamping to the target photo doesn’t work.
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